5th Post: Peshawar

Peshawar

Peshawar which is also known as the city of flowers is the capital of KPK province of Pakistan, with an area of 1,257 km² and a population of about 1.97 million (2017) is one of the oldest cities in South Asia.

   

Early history

Peshawar is near the eastern end of the historic Khyber Pass, close to the border with Afghanistan, Peshawar's recorded history dates back to at least 539 BCE, making it the oldest city in Pakistan and one of the oldest cities in the world. Peshawar was the capital of the ancient Kushan Empire, and was home to what may have been the tallest building in the ancient world, the Kanishka stupa. Peshawar was then sacked by the White Huns, before the arrival of Muslim empires. The city was an important trading centre during the Mughal era before serving as the winter capital of the Afghan Durrani Empire from 1757 until the city was captured by the Sikh Empire in 1818, who were then followed by the British in 1849.

Short History and Culture overview:

Once standing on the top of imposing Bala-Hisar Fort in Peshawar, one could see the historic Khyber Valley- a gateway that has seen traders, conquers, nomads and travelers passing through it. But today, you can only see the jungle of high concrete structures, plazas and clouds of hanging over the cityscape. So much ‘development’ has taken place in the historic city.

Zaheer-ud-Din Babur crossed the Khyber Pass in the Sixteen Century on his way from Kabul, and ordered to strengthen the Fort of Peshawar known as Bala-Hisar (the high Fort). The Fort became a symbol of his victory on this side of the Khyber Pass. Sikhs and British during their rule reinforced Bala-Hisar for different reasons through.

The British made Peshawar their frontier headquarters. They also added a new part to the historic city: typical colonial garrison with Gora Bazaar, church, single men barracks, bungalows and cantonment Railway Station. The blend of colonial and Mughal architecture, shady trees, flower beds along pathways and spacious

Houses in garrison in contrast to the multi storied residences in the city still stand out boldly. Life during the early days may be severed in old city. Historic houses having bay windows, Jharoka and Naqqashi work that may be reminiscent of Gandhara civilization.

Historical places

The history of the fort must surely to that of the city, but the early days are marked in mystery. It is tempting, however, to see this as the site of fortification protected by a moat that was visited and described by the Chinese travelers like Hsuan Tsang and later Ruder Kipling.

 Presently Bala-Hisar fort houses headquarters of a prestigious Frontier Corps- the defenders of the mountains. Many kings have stayed in this Fort cum Royal residence in the past, contemplating their strategic moves to consolidate their gains.

For-tiered Cunningham clock tower erected at the turn of the century on the eve of Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee other gems in the history of Peshawar that catch the eye of any passerby.

The famous Chowk Yadgar is located in the midst of wide and sprawling convergence point of different major roads and bazaars of the city, have witnessed agitation stemming from religious, political and international issues in the country. Commemorative Square was originally named in the memory of British Colonel Hastings. In 1969, the square was dedicated to the heroes of 1965 Indo-Pakistan war.

Edward’s Collage was established in 1901 and named in the memory of famous administrative Sir Herbert Edward as missionary boarding school. Later, Haji Sahib of Turangzai laid down the foundation of Islamia collage in 1911. The collage has magnificent frontage facing Jamrud Road with its domes, kiosks and pinnacles rising above the green trees, which contrast sharply with red brick ornate building. The architectural taste is peculiarly of Mughal with a touch of colonial style. Three domed mosque adjacent to the collage is also of the artistic pleasure.

Sethi houses built during 1830-34, wood - work added in them in 1983, is good specimen of the past and legendary character of the city holding thousands of secrets.

Cunningham Clock Tower

Kanishka stupa

Kotla Mohsin Khan

Sethi Houses

Jamrud Fort

Rehman Baba Grave

Gates

Kabuli or Edward Gate
Sard Chah Gate
Swati Gate Shaheen Colony
Gate Way to Khyber Pass ( Bab-Khyber )
Lahori Gate
Gunj Gate
Sarki Gate
Ramdas Gate

Mosques

The Mosque Mahabat Khan, Peshawar’s outstanding architecture legacy, in Jeweler’s Bazar was constructed by the Governor of Peshawar Mahabat Khan Mirza Lerharsib, in 1630 during the era of the Mughal Emperor Shah Jehan. The Mosque was desecrated and badly damaged by the Sikhs in early nineteen century and later when the fire broke out in 1898. The British renovated it for the first time and brought back some of its grandeur.

Presently it is being looked after by the “Auqaf Department” and seems in an urgent need of attention. Intricate naqqashi is fading and creaks have snacked in the courtyard as well as in the walls of the grand mosque.

Mahabat Khan Mosque

Qasim Ali Khan Mosque

Museums

­­­In a Grand Victorian hall, the Peshawar Museum houses one of the world’s best collection of Gandhara art, including stupas depicting the Buddha’s stupa collection presents a clear picture of life of Peshawar Valley during first four centuries A.D. when Peshawar was the capital of a vast empire. Handicrafts, tools and cloths of different tribes in the ethnological portion I the museum are also interesting and throw light on the cultural heritage of the region.

Peshawar Museum  (Gandhara)

Sethi House Museum

Pushkalavati Museum

Parks

With such thick layer of history compressed so tightly, Peshawar today is continuously growing and expanding. In the same period, the land under parks and green space has shrunk from 163 to 75 acres.

Wazir Bagh
Khalid Bin Waleed Park
Sher Khan Shaheed Stadium: Shami Road
Arbab Niaz Stadium Peshawar: Eidgah Road
Bagah Naran Park
Shahi Bagh Peshawar: Govt Collage Road
Jinnah Park: Firdos Chowk
Chacha Younas Park: Gts Bus Stand
Peshawar Club: Peshawar Cantt
Tatara Park HayatAbad Peshawar
Shalman Park HayatAbad Peshawar
Ghani Park HayatAbad Peshawar
Garrison Park Peshawar

Food Places

Cosmopolitan character of Qissa Khawani Bazaar Piccadilly of Peshawar is lined with its traditional kehwa khanas, Tikka, Chapli Kabab and dry fruit shops along with modern show rooms of leather ware and bright coloured garments. The stories of the Amirs of Bokhara and the Khans of Khiva and regional love of ‘Adam and our Khani have been substituted by satellite receivers continuously breaking news and telling amazing tales of fiction from all over the world. General Evitable, the Italian mercenary who was appointed governor of Peshawar by Maharaja Ranjit Singh, built the bazaar in the present shape in the early nineteenth century. Among tourist, it is still best known Bazaar of the city. Afghan refugees who came to Peshawar as a result of Soviet occupation have added yet another dimension in the character of the city in general this bazaar in particular where they can be seen doing business from exchanging money to selling “Kehwa”.

Charsi  Tikka

Jalil kabab House

Dumpukht

Chowk yaadgar kulfi falooda

The golden juice shop

Famous Shopping Spots

Qissa khawani bazar

Saddar Bazar